You said it was a twelve-house town. Did you call it town? No sĆ© . Youāve been speaking in English and Iāve been attempting Spanish and there are details weāve lost to effort, that weāve grinned over, our hair flying around us in time to the busās bumps along the narrow road, the thick air coming in the open windows. āI grew up here, just around here. There were twelve houses and a soccer field. Very peaceful.ā ā Paz ,ā I say. You smile. āSee that?ā Youāve been pointing out the agricultural fields as we pass them, a serious job as theyāre everywhere, on the right and the left, stretching for kilometers. Coffee. Plantains. Cassava. Hectares of pineapple. You described how volcanic ash has enriched the soil, how the area is flush with large ranches and small family fincas . As weāve traveled, Iāve watched men with machetes at their hips, some slashing their silver blades in strong strokes mere meters from the road. āSee that? Sugar cane.ā ā AzĆŗcar ,ā I say. You smile again,...